Tribute

Train to Vienna is delayed by 15 minutes: typical for trains departing from the Czech Republic, according to Camel. Brno's train station is nostalgic: not just because of its neo-Baroque columns supporting a lofty ceiling but also its old departure-arrivals board on which plates of letters and numbers flip noisily every now and then as the board refreshes the times and destinations of trains. One of the many things I find most captivating.

***


Vienna. Random thought of the day: Cold weather is cool because you can pretend that you're smoking and hanging with the 'in' gang every time your breath condenses upon exhalation. So this is how it feels like.


***


Flight to Athens is delayed by an hour. Bought a guidebook at the airport bookshop. I now have three in my bag: Frommer's, which is my favourite because it is the most informative of the three; Lonely Planet, for its chapter on Greek history and just-in-cases; as well as the new Eyewitness, just because it's pretty.


***


A tribute to my wonderful guide. And lovely host. But above all, my good friend Camel.

Brno

Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic. Admittedly, it's not quite as beautiful as Prague. Check that. It's not quite as grand and ostentatious as Prague. But I think Brno is beautiful in its own way.

Baroque Parnas fountain

The city centre is still rather busy. But not quite busy. More like busy in a town marketplace way with many people bustling about their businesses.

Brno Town Hall

However, there are quiet nooks and crannies to explore which zig-zag their way through the city up to the hill on which Petrov Cathedral stands. Little parks with benches for you to sit and contemplate. It's a lovely place.

St. Thomas' Augustinian Abbey

So there we were, walking aimlessly around Brno. Camel tries to think of interesting places we can visit in Brno (it's always a problem if you're a local). I follow contentedly whilst soaking up the sun and appreciating the environment (easy when someone's showing you around). An unusual couple we were: black hair against brown, blue eyes against chinky squints and yellow skin against white.

We can visit the brewery. I wrinkle my nose in disgust at the very thought of it. What about St. Thomas' Abbey? What's there? It's an abbey. I resist the strong urge to roll my eyes. Gregor Mendel was a priest there. Double take. Gregor Mendel? The Gregor Mendel? Father of modern genetics? Ya.

Brisk walk. And we arrive at the abbey. It's been converted to the Mendel Museum of Genetics with displays of his personal belongings alongside his life story. His very own notes detailing his experiments were also exhibited with an explanation on his discoveries.

The grounds are quiet. Around the ruins of the greenhouse where Mendel supposedly conducted his experiments on peas, Augustinian monks make their way to religious duties, their robes brushing against the graveled paths. The quiet environment is conducive for contemplation as Mendel strides across the courtyard into his greenhouse where his discoveries will revolutionize the study of modern-day Biology.

Petrov Cathedral

View of Brno from the bell tower of Petrov Cathedral

Prague at night

Christmas market at Old Town Square
Christmas market at Wenceslas Square

Wenceslas Monument

National Museum

Prague State Opera

Prague Castle with St. Vitus' Cathedral at Lesser Town

Old Town Hall

Astronomical Clock

Old Town Hall

"The floor is original." The highlight of the day was definitely the tour around Prague's Old Town Hall. "Ceiling original." In spite of the old tour guide who sounded just as animated as the London tube's female announcer, I actually found the whole place very interesting indeed. "This way please."

The Old Town Hall consists of four houses. (The fifth was bombed during World War II and never rebuilt. A plaque dedicated to those who lost their lives in the war now stands at the site.) These houses were obtained by the Old Town Hall over the years as Prague got bigger and wealthier. As a result, the Old Town Hall resembles a layered cake of different flavours.

Basement rooms consist of medieval farmhouses which used to be at ground level before the ground of modern-day Prague was raised to prevent flooding. Ground floor rooms consist of Gothic houses once owned by merchants and nobles of the town. First floor rooms on the other hand, are lavishly decorated in the stately style of the Baroque period. In a similar fashion to that of St. Vitus' Cathedral, the Old Town Hall sports a neo-Classical facade enclosing its varied interior.

Views from its tower

Views from Charles Bridge

St. Nicholas' Church

Prague Castle

First Court

Second Court

St. Vitus' Cathedral
(Exterior)




(Interior)


St. Wenceslas Chapel

Old Royal Palace
Vladislav Hall

Palace Chapel

Throne Room

St. George's Basilica

The Golden Lane

Powder Tower

Prague

Prague is beautiful. The houses of Lesser Town clutter together in a small dense area with nostalgically old Renaissance windows, Baroque cupolas and Classical facades. What makes it all the more amazing is how it has all survived the ravages of time including two world wars. Flanked by natural banks, the river Vltava flows through Prague. Its waters are clear and a regal shade of deep blue this winter despite not being completely clean.


Someone once told me that Czechs aren't friendly at all. Sadly, I found this to be true. (Well, at least during one instance.) So there I was trying to buy a 10Kč (crowns) postcard with a 50Kč note when the shopkeeper, Mr. No-Small-Money barked at me, "No small money! Ten crowns!" It's a real pity because Camel and her family are the complete opposite.