Macau revisited

Kuan Tai Temple


Holy House of Mercy


Cathedral


Lou Kau Mansion


St. Dominic's Church


Ruins of St. Paul's


Na Tcha Temple


Section of the Old City Walls


Mount Fortress


St. Anthony's Church


Protestant Cemetery


Casa Garden


'Leal Senado' Building


St. Augustine's Church


St. Augustine's Square


Sir Robert Ho Tung Library


Dom Pedro V Theatre


St. Joseph's Seminary and Church


St. Lawrence's Church


Mandarin's House


Lilau Square


Penha Church


A-Ma Temple


Moorish Barracks

Senado Square

Despite being situated on the mainland, Macau's completely different from other Chinese cities. Considering its history, it's not surprising. Like Hong Kong, this Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China is better - albeit slightly - than the other mainland cities he's visited so far. Sure, there are still some really rude people. But there are also very kind and helpful ones. So it's not so skewed.

He wonders if this is because of its long Western influence since the Portuguese established its colony in Macau around the early 1550s. It's one of those chicken-and-egg questions really. But it's definitely something to see such a tight-knitted community fusing Western and Oriental influences.

This is especially evident in the Historic Centre of Macau where Chinese architecture such as Kuan Tai Temple and Lou Kau Mansion sit side by side with Portuguese buildings such as Senado Square and the Cathedral. This may seem insignificant. But having witnessed the segregation of locals from the 'whites' in Hong Kong and the divide-and-rule policy in Malaya, this is something extraordinary.

Stanley Beach

He needs some time alone. Retreats from the crowd of 'friends'. And the ranting begins:

He hates the Caucasians. For being the imperialists. For being proud. Loud. Selfish. Decadent. He hates the Asians for being so fucking pathetic. For being inferior. Discriminated. Segregated. Isolated.

But. Truth is. Above all. He's angry at himself. For being between the two. Neither here nor there.

He gets his time alone.

Jeffy

His eyes are the most captivating pair he's ever come across. It's very rare to find such expressive and soulful eyes.

One glance. He widens his eyes. Disbelief. Reverts them back to normal. Disappointment. Looks down at the floor. Regret. Looks up at him. Pleading. Furrows his eyebrows. Anxiety. Reverts them back to normal. Repentance. Deepens his eyes. Sadness. And he barely has the heart to punish him for misbehaving.

W F Joseph Lee Primary School II

Victoria Harbour

Innocence. It's the only thing you lose growing up. To see the world through chaste eyes. Unblemished by the evils that beset it. To see nothing but Good in each other. Ignorance.

Lantau Link View Point

Sitting at the Lantau Link View Point, he finally gets some peace of mind. The breeze is cooling and the lights soothing. Below Tsing Ma Bridge, ships and boats of all sorts sail by lazily. Here, he finally finds his peace of mind.

Ching Chung Koon

A fledgling bird sits helpless on the ground, its chirps barely audible. It flaps its wings pathetically in an attempt to lift itself off the ground. It had better learn how to fly soon or it won't survive in this cruel harsh world. He avoids it in case its parents mistake his good motives.

Someone must have died recently. The scaffolding is all that remains of a makeshift pavilion being dismantled in front of the crematorium furnace. The furnace is open. Its gaping door reveals burnt wood and ashes within its cavernous depths. Heat emanates from it and smoke permeates the air. Like the mouth of a slumbering dragon, it stinks of death. For a brief moment, he thinks he can smell the deceased and they become one. For a brief moment. 'Why would anyone want to be cremated?' he wonders. 'We're all going to burn in Hell anyway.'

Tolkien was right. Even the purest thing has been defiled. Even if Good still remains in this world, it is marred by Evil. People disgust him. He is disgusted by them. So much that he hates them. Terribly. He's never been filled with such hatred before and it disgusts him even more. The vicious cycle propagates itself. It's one big cycle of hate and disgust.

Even the tortoises dive deep into the green murky depths.

Baptist University

'Move was a little hectic, but thankfully the ex-bf was here in shanghai to help, he he.'

Jeez. Talk about the gay gene.

W F Joseph Lee Primary School

He sits alone in his classroom reflecting on the day nearly at its end. It's only been the first day of the first week. Many thoughts jostle around his head that he's probably better off without the reflection.

He knows. Five days isn't enough to achieve much. But. If only. If only he could plant the single seed of love for English. Build their confidence in speaking English. They can be nurtured by other teachers more qualified than he is. Teach to learn. Hopefully, the seed will then blossom into a fruit-bearing tree.

There's so much more to work on. So much more. But five weeks is more than enough.

Lamma Island

Grandma's Bean Curd

Hong Kong Island - Lamma Island (Ferry)

It's a well-known fact that the Port of Hong Kong is one of the busiest container ports in the world. But it's hard to appreciate this fact until you've actually seen the countless rows of containers stacked one on top of the other at the port. Or legions of container ships plying the waters like this heavy son-of-a-bitch with tonnes of consumer products on its back ready to be shipped directly into people's homes.

When you think of the inconceivable amount of trade and endless trafficking of containers going on with other ports around the world, everything else pales in comparison and dims into insignificance. This is also how we take over the world.

Holy Family Canossian School

W F Joseph Lee Primary School
Subsidised government school

Farm Road Government School
Full government school

King's College Old Boys' Association
Subsidised government school

S. K. H. Tin Wan Chi Nam Primary School
Full government school

Po On Commercial Association Wong Siu Ching Secondary School
Full government school

That said and done however, it really doesn't matter which type of school it is. Because when 25% of the region's budget is set aside for education and corruption is at an all-time low, you can expect schools to be well provided. This is how we take over the world.

Flower Market

Goldfish Market

British Consulate

He thinks. There can only be two ways about it: either we jump headlong into the globalisation fold and learn English with the risk of losing our heritage or we strengthen ourselves against the challenges of globalisation and dominate the world. Only then, can we dictate how we want the world to run and protect what defines ourselves, our identity. Only then, can we subjugate the world to our demands and wishes.

Olympic Square

Having explored all the touristy places last year, he now casts his gaze on the local life of Hong Kong, both urban and rural. He plans to seek out places known only to the local people in the hopes of uncovering little gems like he did the night before. At his third time in Hong Kong, he will hopefully understand the heart and soul of Hong Kong by digging deep into her roots.

Hong Kong Park

In such a place where space is so limited, none is wasted, either in the raising of impressive skyscrapers or in the cultivation of green retreats. This is how the city achieves its balance between development and the environment. Balance. Stability.

Citibank Tower

All around him, corporate people in smart suits rush through their lunches. The latecomers pay the price by having to complain about the very long queue stretching out of the restaurant. He can't pick out conversations amidst the incessant chatter of his third language. Such is the corporate world of Hong Kong, he believes. Rush hour. Rush.

***

Each branch shop in Hong Kong receives commission for the goods it sells. He's not sure if this is the usual practice but wonders if it is the same in mainland China. It would explain the non-existent service in China's shopping experience. Here at least, there's an effort to ensure that every shopper is served by a polite shopping attendant.

There are four types of schools in Hong Kong: international schools, private schools, subsidised governments schools and full government schools (in order of affluence). Of these schools, only the two government schools provide free education for the first nine years. He wants to find out if the schools he's teaching at are private schools. It would explain why they're so well equipped with air-conditioned and computer-enabled classrooms, fully-stocked arts and crafts rooms, mirrored dance studios as well as complete sports facilities and equipment.

East Tsim Sha Tsui

Hong Kong celebrates its 10th anniversary of reversion to Chinese sovereignty and the establishment of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region with a display of fireworks.

With the signing of the Convention Respecting an Extension of the Hong Kong Territory on 9 June 1898, Britain leased the area between Boundary Street and Deep Bay, i.e. the New Territories, together with about 235 islands, from the Qing government. The lease began on 1 July for 99 years, which would expire in 1997.

On 22 September 1982, Mrs. Margaret Thatcher, the British Prime Minister, first visited China and met Deng Xiaoping, the Chinese statesman two days later to discuss the issues of Hong Kong's future. On 19 December 1984, China and Britain signed the Sino-British Joint Declaration in Beijing to confirm Hong Kong's reversion to Chinese sovereignty on 1 July 1997.

At 11.30 pm on 30 June 1997, the Sino-British Handover Ceremony was held at the Grand Hall of the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. At 12:00 am on 1 July, the national anthem of China was played, followed by the hoisting of the national flag of China and the flag of HKSAR, signifying China's resumption of sovereignty over Hong Kong from then on. At 1.30 am, the Ceremony for the Establishment of HKSAR and the inauguration of the Government of HKSAR was held.

Shanghai - Hong Kong (Train) II

This is why he prefers to travel alone. 11 excruciating hours on a train from Shanghai to Hong Kong passes by in a blink of an eye with conversations between him and a Canadian, a New Zealander and a British. Thirteen bottles of beer later and the canteen bears witness to all sorts of banter: politics, relationships, family and sex.

There couldn't have been a more eclectic bunch. The Canadian hippy is travelling the world. The New Zealander social worker is dreading her return to England and thus, procrastinating in China. And the British manages a funfare.

This is why he loves to travel on his own.

Shanghai - Hong Kong (Train)

Outside, the view flashes by quickly and he remembers the stranger asking him if he is happy with his life. He thinks of b. It's ridiculous how his happiness, his whole life, revolves around b. He looks back on his life from the day b came into his life. He's no longer the whiner b used to chide him for. And he's definitely more independent. He's far from perfect, having lots more to work on. But at this moment in time, he is happy with his life.

Inside, people sit by the windows and enjoy the scenery. Some eat their dinners, others chat. Some read whilst others play cards.

Outside, the view flashes by quickly and a smile appears on his lips. In the warm glow of the setting sun, farmers tend to wide flat areas of box-plot farmland. Ploughing, weeding and fertilizing. Stone or brick houses replace wooden houses of old but farmers still use old-fashion ploughs and hoes. In the warm glow of the setting sun, he is happy with his life.

He misses b this much. But he revels in his nostalgia. Lost. Both in time and space.

Riverside Promenade

The lights of the city have been switched off but the city itself remains lively nonetheless. The atmosphere here at the Riverside Promenade east of the river Huangpu has not dissipated one bit and he doubts it has on the Bund west of the river either. People here continue to savour their decadent Western coffee whilst enjoying the view like he is or having a good laugh with friends now that the week is over. He expects it to be the same on the Bund. Peddlars still trying to sell their curios whilst people walk along the promenade and enjoy the view.

After a week in Shanghai, he still hasn't yet grasped nor understood the Chinese. He has his hypotheses but they are largely unfounded, based merely on his limited observations. Everything seems pretty obvious on the surface. Things haven't really changed much in essence since dynastic China. Confucianism and Buddhism still seem to play a major role in Chinese lifestyle although they are slowly becoming less and less consequential in today's modern society, clearly evident in the lifestyle of the youth. However, certain deep-rooted practices will remain for some time yet.

As for Communism, China seems pretty much untouched by it. Well, at least for Shanghai. The economy is booming and most corporations apply the capitalist model of the West. It would seem that Communism only applies to the country's politics. But politics affects us all, whether we like it or not. And so he suspects that deep down, it's not really that simple. And this eludes him completely. It would take him a couple of years in China before he can comprehend this.

Leifeng Pagoda

Three Pools Mirroring the Moon

As the boat lolls from side to side in a lethargic manner, he imagines the three moons being reflected off the glimmering waters of the lake in the dark of the night.

Hangzhou

He sits by the edge of the West Lake and eats his lunch which he bought off an old lady peddling her home-cooked food. The waters lap lazily at his feet while boats ferry people to and from the Island of Small Seas directly ahead of him. One out of many dotting the lake. Overhead, leafy willow trees shade him and old men fishing on both his sides from the slight drizzle, evident only from the small ripples on the surface of the large lake. He hears the lively chatter of people strolling leisurely behind him along the disjointed causeways linked by graceful arched bridges spanning the lake. Pavilions refresh the weary with scenic views of the lake and the lush green mountains that surround and protect it. Solitary pagodas can be seen on their rolling slopes, propounding the Dharma and testifying the splendour of the Tang Dynasty.

Island of Small Seas

Jiang'an Temple

Heylo,

What a wet day it's been today. Didn't really do much. Explored a temple: Jiang'an Temple. Bought my train ticket to Hong Kong. Will be leaving on Saturday in the evening, a day shorter than initially planned but I'm not complaining. Much.

I mean, out of all the many banks in Shanghai, only the Bank of China accepts traveller's cheques. So I had to look for one in the rain and in the process, stumble into a shin-deep puddle. I kid you not.

Another person tried to cut in front of me at the ticket counter again. Not very surprising now. But I snapped back at him. Which I hope isn't becoming a habit. I've witnessed at least a fight everyday in Shanghai. Today, I saw two. So I think it's high-time I leave for Hong Kong, to at least some sort of order.

So yeah. Hangzhou tomorrow. Hopefully back in time to have coffee at the West Bund. And a last walk early on Saturday.

Hope your day went well. And thanks again for the lunch. I'll make it up to you someday. And do keep in touch. Hopefully, see you again in the near future.

Take care buddy,
k

Pan Gate

Life for the Chinese remains pretty much the same today as it has been since Tang times. Possibly even longer. This is especially true for the biggest social class of the population: the farmers back then or the working class of today.

Back then, farmers work their farms during the day, trying to coerce their crops to grow. At night, they return to their homes and families for dinner before retiring for the night. Today, the proletariat egg out a living by scavenging for every bit of money they can find during the day. In the evenings, they have their dinners by the roadside with friends and while the night away in leisure games of cards at the public park.

This is how it's been done in China for thousands of years and he doubts it's ever going to change anytime soon. He's still wondering if the Communist ideology fits the Chinese perfectly or if the Chinese fit the Communist ideology perfectly.

Confucian Temple

Garden of the Master of Nets

I said fourteen kuai, not four kuai! You heard wrongly! You can't even speak Putonghua!

The old man couldn't have been more wrong. If anything, travelling around Shanghai for the past five days has taught him to listen and speak Putonghua. In fact, the xiao jie at the souvenir shop had said to him, 'ni de chung wen hao' despite his humble denials.

Impossible, four kuai! Even a taxi will cost 16 kuai!

Silly old man. The same xiao jie had told him it that wouldn't cost more than four kuai. He had done his research. The old man shouldn't have agreed when he had said four kuai while indicating with four fingers twice before hopping onto the trishaw.

Don't be ridiculous! Give me my money!

The old fool! You should be giving me my one kuai change. The old man's grubby hands grasp his five kuai note tighter. His speech gets faster. Louder. Cruder. The old man tries to rally the other locals to his cause but they avoid him. They stand on the sidewalk. Talking amongst themselves. Laughing.

Old master. The police are on the way, thanks to two ladies with mobiles who could speak English. I've done my fair share of travelling. Been cheated by others before you. You think you've got me now. But you haven't got any idea, have you?

The old man shoves a dirty crumpled one kuai note into his hands and disappears into the hectic traffic of the dusty street. Minutes later, he enjoys a good laugh with the locals at the Garden of the Master of Nets.

***

The Garden of the Master of Nets is designated as a World Heritage site by the United Nations. It's always the smallest that are the most treasured.

Temple of Mystery

Suzhou

Suzhou is definitely 'Venice of the East'. More accurately, it's 'Venice of the EAST. Dirty streets. Stagnant polluted waterways. Rude people. He sees how it can be pretty but when considered as a whole, it's nothing like the real Venice at all except for the confusing maze of narrow alleys.

Lion Grove Garden

Garden of the Humble Administrator

His fascination with China and her culture grows more and more ardent with each passing day. He'll never live in a house because it's against his principles but if he were to, he'd live in a Qing-styled mansion furnished in a style suited for a literati of high-post.

Shanghai - Suzhou (Train)

Islands of houses. Islands of houses dot a sea of crops. Islands of houses dot a sea of crops and whiz past the train. A flashback. A violent bite of the nipple. A flashback. A familiar stabbing pain at the heart. A flashback.

***

Of all the things you wished or hoped they'd be the least efficient at, they organize their seating arrangements on the train. Can't even issue standardized tickets.

Shanghai Museum

Trust the Communists to be this inefficient. He waits for more than two hours to cash in his traveller's cheque while the clerk has her lunch. It's mind-bogling why they do not want his money.

Old-fashioned seals stamp every document in red. Some capitalism and competition are needed in this country.

Jinmao Tower

The Dead walk the streets at night like insubstantial spectres. The Undead. With nowhere to call their home, they float aimlessly up and down Nanjing Street. Some resume their deathly sleep whilst others scavenge for food left over by the Living. Prostitutes and hustlers prowl the street and prey on stragglers. Peddlars sell stale foods at discounted prices. It's surreal. Like a ghost town. Shanghai reveals her other face. And it isn't pretty.

Grand Hyatt Atrium

He wonders what the suicide rate is.

Huangpu River crossing

Salty sweaty Shanghai. The air chokes. He's not sure if it's from bad body odour or the exhaust fumes of motorbikes. The air tastes salty. He can taste it at the tip of his tongue. Tip of Tongue. He learnt about it in his Psychology option. Funny thing, the mind. You could say it has a mind of its own. He wonders if the saltiness of the air is from evaporating sweat or the river. But are rivers ever salty? He wouldn't be surprised if this one was. With a river this polluted, it might even taste 'umami'. Umami. The fifth gustatory perception. Sweet, salty, sour, bitter, umami. You know. Glutamate. As in monosodium glutamate. Am-ass-gee. Something which the Chinese need to learn to use appropriately. Somewhere in the dark, a man clears his throat. There's an anticipatory silence before the inevitable spit. His mind turns to the view of the Bund.

Longhua Temple

He thinks. Because of its introduction around the time of the Three Kingdoms and Jin Dynasty, Buddhism remains only so much as a religion. It cannot compare to the older Confucianism which has become part-and-parcel of Chinese lifestyle.

It is said, 'the Western King of Far Sight holds a dragon in his hand, blessing human beings. The Northern King of Virtue holds an umbrella, protecting human wealth. The Southern King of Developing Merit holds a sword, protecting the Buddhist Law. The Eastern King of Protection for Buddhist Territory in Heaven and Earth holds a pipa, protecting all living creatures.'

Soong Ching-ling's Former Residence

Soong Ching-ling's statement upon receiving the Stalin Peace Award 1951:

'It is a most profound honour of my life to be named among the winners of the Stalin Peace Prize. It is a privilege to be associated in the fight for peace with Stalin. For peace is what the people of the world want most. And Stalin is the name which personifies peace.

In accepting this most valued honour, I do so as a representative of the Chinese people. It has been their unrelenting revolutionary struggle which has placed the might of our nation on the side of peace. It has been their victory, in conjunction with the Socialist strides of the Soviet people and the courageous advances and stands of all other progressive elements, which has re-aligned the world for all time in favour of peace and people's rule.

The united front of all people today continues at a most intensified pace the fight to maintain the peace. The moneyed moguls of the United States and its satellites, befouling the word 'Peace' by claiming to act in its behalf are sustaining serious defeats. As a result, they have become mad. They would mercilessly destroy all peaceful construction, as they have trampled into dust the achievements of the valiant Korean people. They would fiendishly tear child from mother or destroy both, as they are doing in Korea, Malaya and other parts of the world. They would strap all mankind to their exploitative service, to be reduced to slaves and cannon fodder, as they are attempting to do at home, in Western Germany and Japan.'

Like they say, 'behind every successful man is a woman.' Funny how they normally tend to outlive their men and reap the rewards sown by them. Soong Ching-ling certainly did, from the documentary of her life. To be fair though, she did do a fair share of her part.

Sun Yat-sen's Former Residence

The impression. Austere. The furnishing. Adequate.

It's a surprising contrast to the opulent and wasteful palaces of the emperors. It's obvious that Sun Yat-sen had nothing else on his mind except the people and future of China. It's intriguing however, that emperors Kangxi, Yongzheng and Qianlong brought about the Golden Age of Chinese civilization despite also having the time to cultivate within themselves the finer arts such as calligraphy within the tall walls of the Forbidden City.

Could such be the mind of a Communist? It's very interesting indeed. He wonders to what extent does Communism influence Chinese lifestyle. Food is bland and it is possible that it has permeated much deeper into the tenets of daily than most people really think it has.

Pity. A week just isn't enough to understand the Chinese.

That said, he's impressed by the running of their museums. Exhibits are displayed with state-of-the-art technology and no measures are spared in ensuring their protection, including plastic shoe-wraps. They're proud of their history. And they're not going to forget it nor let the world forget it either.

Zhou Enlai's Former Residence

Site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party

'The founding of the Communist Party of China is the inevitable outcome of the development of China's modern history.'

How true. He is of the opinion that Communism was the only way forward for China back then. There was no other form of government suited to unite and control a country as large as China. Or even as diverse a culture or as rich a history as China.

Democracy would not have worked, not when the majority of China's population was the uneducated proletariat.

It was the only way. Even today, it is the only way. But change may come about in the future. May. It might not. But then we'd see the rise of a world superpower under Communist rule and that would be certainly be something.

Nanjing Road

And which city would be complete without its own shopping street?

Shanghai City's God Temple