The Cambodian countryside is very much like that of the Mekong delta: flat plains being used as farmland as far as the eye can see. However, instead of the many rivers fanning out from the Mekong to irrigate its delta, ditches have been built to bring water from Tonle Sap. Pol Pot may have been right: the Extraordinary Great Leap Forward could possibly happen if it were to be carried out properly.
***
The bulk of tourists starts to leave Phnom Bakkeng by climbing down the steep, small steps of the temple situated at the crown of the hill. Thank god. It was as if god had decided to flood the earth for forty days and forty nights again and climbing little Phnom Bakkeng would save their sorry lives. Like helpless little ants on an anthill we were.
But come on, what's the point of climbing Phnom Bakkeng to catch the sunset if you're not even going to stay for it. I mean, a low sun in the sky is not a sunset. It's a setting sun. Notice: noun vs. verb.
Only a few of us remain, waiting patiently for that brief window of time just after the sun dips completely below the horizon and throws its final rays of dying red. Some sit and enjoy this new peace and quiet. Others the view. The rest update their journals. Ironically, it was a disappointing sunset in the end due to low clouds on the horizon. Oh well, it happens.
Within minutes, the hill is plunged into utter darkness and climbing down the hill becomes almost impossible as the trail disappears just two feet in front of me. I'm the last to leave and suddenly, I get a loneliness attack.
Cycling very slowly back, I try to rationalize things out: Humans are said to be social animals but does that mean that we *need* to be sociable? A need to dispel loneliness? Back at the hostel, the din of the bar falls behind me as I climb the stairs onto the balcony to see the stars - it's one of those nights. Perfect.
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