It's rather difficult to write about Hoi An. It was Vietnam's most important port from the 16th to the 18th century. The city was a major trading post for ceramics, dealing especially with nearby China and Japan. As a result, the old town is a smorgasbord of Chinese-, Japanese- and Vietnamese-influenced architecture, sometimes even in the same building, a legacy of the traders who did business and settled here.
From the 18th century onwards, Hoi An's role of port and trading post shifted to the port of Da Nang and the town reputedly began its decline. Many mercantile centres fell into disuse and were abandoned whilst residential houses became neglected, a mere shadow of their former glory.
In 1999, UNESCO recognised the old town as a World Heritage site not only for its architectural wealth but also for the unique livelihood and culture of the local inhabitants. As a result, the whole town has undergone a facelift with buildings damaged by water and termites being repaired or even taken apart and rebuilt with the funds that come with its new status. Now, the whole place looks and feels tacky: the sort that occurs when you try to make something old that inevitably ends up looking new. It's definitely lost its authenticity.
However, the tourists don't seem to notice this and with them coming in droves in search of that authentic Vietnamese town, the livelihood of the locals has shifted to a tourist-centric industry. According to a study, souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes as well as mini-hotels have increased whilst a decrease has been observed in small manufacture industries. Even the front of houses have been renovated to serve their new purpose. It can't possibly get any tackier than this.
But - yes, there is a 'but' and a very strong one at that too - Hoi An still retains some of its beauty which caught the hearts and imaginations of the first travellers who visited this town before fame caused its demised (or so I'd like to think). If you look between the mannequins sporting traditional Vietnamese clothing, past the racks of leather shoes and through the shelves of craftsware, you'll find supporting columns of timber and wall plaques with Chinese characters inscribed on them as well as Vietnamese bow-and-arrow beams in the ceiling supporting Chinese yin-yang roofs.
What I like best is how you can pop into any shop and ask to see the building. Most shopowners are more than happy to let you do so and some will tell you how old the house is and explain how they've lived there for generations, passing down the house to their children. Look past the reception hall and you'll see the Chinese-inspired open-air courtyard with Zen rockery and behind that, untouched and preserved, is the age-old way of life of the locals. Simple, frugal, basic.
I guess, after writing all this, Hoi An is exactly that: difficult. It's difficult to like it but once you know what to look for, you'll learn to appreciate it.
From the 18th century onwards, Hoi An's role of port and trading post shifted to the port of Da Nang and the town reputedly began its decline. Many mercantile centres fell into disuse and were abandoned whilst residential houses became neglected, a mere shadow of their former glory.
In 1999, UNESCO recognised the old town as a World Heritage site not only for its architectural wealth but also for the unique livelihood and culture of the local inhabitants. As a result, the whole town has undergone a facelift with buildings damaged by water and termites being repaired or even taken apart and rebuilt with the funds that come with its new status. Now, the whole place looks and feels tacky: the sort that occurs when you try to make something old that inevitably ends up looking new. It's definitely lost its authenticity.
However, the tourists don't seem to notice this and with them coming in droves in search of that authentic Vietnamese town, the livelihood of the locals has shifted to a tourist-centric industry. According to a study, souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes as well as mini-hotels have increased whilst a decrease has been observed in small manufacture industries. Even the front of houses have been renovated to serve their new purpose. It can't possibly get any tackier than this.
But - yes, there is a 'but' and a very strong one at that too - Hoi An still retains some of its beauty which caught the hearts and imaginations of the first travellers who visited this town before fame caused its demised (or so I'd like to think). If you look between the mannequins sporting traditional Vietnamese clothing, past the racks of leather shoes and through the shelves of craftsware, you'll find supporting columns of timber and wall plaques with Chinese characters inscribed on them as well as Vietnamese bow-and-arrow beams in the ceiling supporting Chinese yin-yang roofs.
What I like best is how you can pop into any shop and ask to see the building. Most shopowners are more than happy to let you do so and some will tell you how old the house is and explain how they've lived there for generations, passing down the house to their children. Look past the reception hall and you'll see the Chinese-inspired open-air courtyard with Zen rockery and behind that, untouched and preserved, is the age-old way of life of the locals. Simple, frugal, basic.
I guess, after writing all this, Hoi An is exactly that: difficult. It's difficult to like it but once you know what to look for, you'll learn to appreciate it.
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